The Vêtir guide

Chloé

Chloé (often written Chloe) is a Paris fashion house founded in 1952 by Gaby Aghion, an Egyptian-born Parisian whose label was one of the first to offer luxury ready-to-wear as an alternative to couture.[1][2] Karl Lagerfeld designed for it for two decades from 1964, and its later creative directors included Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, whose 2005 Paddington the house calls fashion's first It bag.[1] Chloé belongs to Compagnie Financière Richemont.[2] As of November 2026 its creative director is Chemena Kamali, appointed in October 2023, and its chief executive is Laurent Malecaze.[2][3]

Last reviewed November 12, 2026 · Vêtir Editors · 93 sources

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History

Gaby Aghion and the first collections, 1952–1963

Gaby Aghion was born Gabrielle Hanoka in Alexandria, Egypt, in 1921; the house's own history spells her first name Gabriella.[4][5][1] She married her childhood friend Raymond Aghion in 1940, and the couple settled in Paris in 1945.[1] In 1952 she had six sample summer dresses sewn in the plain cotton that couture houses used for patterns and sold them to Paris boutiques from a suitcase.[4][18] She named the label after a friend, Chloé Huysmans; by the Guardian's account she felt her own name sounded like a fortune teller's.[5][4]

Chloé describes itself as one of the first luxury ready-to-wear houses, offering relaxed silhouettes in good fabrics as an alternative to the stiff formality of haute couture.[1] Aghion ran the business with a partner, Jacques Lenoir, whom AFP's obituary of her names as co-founder.[4][6] The house dates its first show, for Spring-Summer 1958, to 1957 at the Café de Flore, and says the shows stayed in Left Bank cafés until the mid-1960s; the Guardian has her showing a collection at breakfast at the Flore in 1956 and twice a year thereafter, and AnOther dates the first show there to 1956.[1][4][19] Aghion did not design alone: she hired Gérard Pipart as her first young designer in 1958 (the Guardian dates her first purchase of his designs to 1959) and in the 1960s worked with Maxime de La Falaise, Michèle Rosier, Graziella Fontana and Karl Lagerfeld.[1][4] With de La Falaise she made Embrun, a shirt-dress of 1960 cut like a T-shirt, and the silk blouse joined the collections in the early 1960s.[1]

Karl Lagerfeld's two decades, 1964–1983

Lagerfeld arrived in 1964, by the house's account, and for Spring-Summer 1966 designed Tertulia, a dress hand-painted with Art Nouveau motifs; the Guardian dates his recruitment to 1963 and The Met's catalog gives 1966.[1][20][21] The Met describes a partnership of 24 years, on and off, between 1964 and 1997, and credits the textile artist Nicole Lefort, at Chloé from the autumn of 1966, with hand-painting his silk dresses in the serti technique, work usually reserved for couture.[22] He became the house's sole designer in 1974 and its exclusive designer in January 1975, and his soft silk dresses with lace inserts set the tone of the decade.[1]

The first Chloé boutique opened in 1972 at the corner of the rue du Bac and the rue de Gribeauval, in the 7th arrondissement, and the first Chloé fragrance followed in April 1975.[1] The Guardian's obituary of Lagerfeld says his Art Deco collection of 1972 drew more attention than most couture shows.[20] In the early 1980s his humour turned to trompe l'oeil embroidery: a violin on the Angkor dress for Spring-Summer 1983, a shower head and hose on the Buée dress of Fall-Winter 1983–84, and sewing tools for Spring-Summer 1984.[1][21] That last collection, conceived as an homage to the seamstresses who make the clothes, closed his first collaboration with the house, which he left once he had taken charge of Chanel.[23][1][20]

Dunhill, Martine Sitbon and Lagerfeld's return, 1985–1997

In 1985 Aghion sold her share of the company to Dunhill and retired, although she seldom missed a show afterwards.[4] The house's owner today, Compagnie Financière Richemont, was founded in 1988; Vogue Runway already called it Chloé's parent company in 2004, and it lists Chloé among its maisons.[24][25][2] After Lagerfeld left and a quick succession of other designers, Martine Sitbon became head designer, in 1987 by the house's dating (WWD and Vogue give 1988); her five years mixed references to historical menswear with the glamour of cabaret.[1][26][27] AnOther credits her nine seasons with campaigns starring Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington, Claudia Schiffer and Helena Christensen.[19] Lagerfeld came back in 1992 and stayed until 1997; for Spring-Summer 1994 he showed tulle dresses hand-painted with motifs from the frescoes of Santorini.[1][4]

Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo, 1997–2006

Stella McCartney, fresh from Central Saint Martins, was named creative director in 1997 at 25, the youngest designer the house had ever hired.[1] Her Chloé combined vintage lingerie, sharp tailoring, low-rise trousers and printed T-shirts, and the house lists Brit Pop, Girl Power and Savile Row among her references; the Savile Row tailor Edward Sexton joined the Chloé atelier as a tailoring expert in the late 1990s.[1][28] AnOther remembers her horse motifs and a fruit-pun slogan T-shirt of Spring-Summer 2001.[19]

When McCartney left in 2001, her friend and deputy Phoebe Philo succeeded her.[1] Philo took the house into leather goods, and in Spring 2005 it released the Paddington, a bag of oversized proportions with an XXL padlock, which Chloé describes as the fashion industry's first It bag.[1] AnOther reports that Chloé's sales rose 60 percent worldwide and 80 percent in the United States that year.[19] Over the decade the house launched bags, small leather goods and shoes, including the wedges of March 2006, and a second line, See by Chloé.[1] Philo, named British designer of the year in 2004, resigned in January 2006 for personal reasons.[29][30]

Melim Andersson, MacGibbon and Waight Keller, 2006–2017

The Swedish designer Paulo Melim Andersson, for seven years design director at Marni, was named chief designer in October 2006, with his first collection, for Fall-Winter 2007, due the following March.[30] In March 2008 Chloé replaced him with Hannah MacGibbon, who had worked at Chloé for five years under Philo and McCartney and had also designed for Valentino.[31] The house credits MacGibbon with a polished Chloé tuned to the 1970s and dates the Marcie, which PurseBlog attributes to her, to 2010.[1][32]

Clare Waight Keller joined in August 2011 and showed her first collection that October, which the house describes as fluid and feminine with a boyish streak.[1] She added the Drew, revealed in 2013 with the Fall 2014 collection, and the Faye, which arrived with Spring-Summer 2015, and in 2012 she brought back alphabetical names, this time for accessories.[1] The house marked its 60th anniversary in 2012 with the exhibition Chloé Attitudes at the Palais de Tokyo, and began selling online in July 2016.[1] Gaby Aghion died in Paris on 27 September 2014, aged 93; she had asked that her death not delay the Spring-Summer 2015 show, which Waight Keller dedicated to her the next day.[4][6][5] In January 2017 Chloé confirmed that Waight Keller would leave after six years, with a final collection scheduled for 2 March and her departure effective on 31 March.[33]

Ramsay-Levi, Hearst and a mission-driven company, 2017–2023

Natacha Ramsay-Levi, who had spent four years as a creative director of women's ready-to-wear under Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, became creative director for ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessories on 3 April 2017.[34] Vogue Runway's Nicole Phelps called her first show, held at the house's headquarters for Spring 2018, a confident debut that borrowed from every predecessor, from Lagerfeld's painted dresses (hers were cotton, painted with eyes and hands) to the horses of McCartney and Philo.[27]

Gabriela Hearst succeeded her on 7 December 2020 while keeping her own label; Chloé presented her as the first woman with roots in both Uruguay and the United States to lead a Paris house.[35] The company had adopted a purpose-driven model in June 2020, and in October 2021 it became a certified B Corporation, which it said no luxury house had done before; the certification was confirmed again in October 2024.[16][17] In July 2023 Chloé confirmed that Hearst would leave after three years, credited her with driving its change into a mission-driven company, and scheduled her last collection, for Spring-Summer 2024, for 28 September 2023.[36]

Chemena Kamali, since 2023

On 9 October 2023 Chloé appointed Chemena Kamali, a German designer born in 1981 who had trained at Central Saint Martins and had twice worked at the house, first on Philo's team and later as Waight Keller's design director.[3] The house dates that second stint from 2012, Richemont's announcement and WWD from 2013; from 2016 she was women's ready-to-wear design director for Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent.[37][3][38] A change of chief executive followed: Riccardo Bellini chose not to renew his mandate after four years and left by the end of 2023, and Laurent Malecaze, who had led a turnaround at Dunhill, succeeded him as president and chief executive.[9][2] Kamali's first runway collection, shown on 29 February 2024, returned to Lagerfeld's late-1970s Chloé, and she brought the Paddington back on the Winter 2025 runway.[39][40][41] In October 2025 the European Commission fined Chloé €19.69 million, after a reduction for cooperation, for restricting the prices that independent retailers could set for its products from December 2019 until the Commission's inspections in April 2023.[42]

Creative directors

In its first decades Chloé was designed by a team working under Aghion's artistic direction; the house's history names each lead since 1997 as creative director.[1] Dates below follow the house where sources differ.

YearsNameTitleWhat they changedRef
1952–1985Gaby AghionFounder, directing a team of designersLuxury ready-to-wear shown in Left Bank cafés; the Embrun shirt-dress; the silk blouse[1][4]
1958–1960sGérard Pipart, Maxime de La Falaise, Michèle Rosier, Graziella FontanaDesignersThe first generation hired by Aghion[1]
1964–1983Karl LagerfeldDesigner; sole designer from 1974Hand-painted silk, lace-inset dresses, capes, trompe l'oeil embroidery[1][22]
1987–1992Martine SitbonHead designerMenswear references and cabaret glamour; supermodel campaigns[1][19]
1992–1997Karl LagerfeldDesigner, second tenureHand-painted tulle; pop collections[1][4]
1997–2001Stella McCartneyCreative directorVintage lingerie, Savile Row tailoring, low-rise trousers, printed and slogan T-shirts[1][19]
2001–2006Phoebe PhiloCreative directorLeather goods; the Paddington; sheer silk dresses against masculine tailoring[1][29]
2006–2008Paulo Melim AnderssonChief designerA brief stint, by the house's account, from Fall-Winter 2007[30][31][1]
2008–2011Hannah MacGibbonCreative directorPolished 1970s mood; the Marcie[1][31][32]
2011–2017Clare Waight KellerCreative directorFluid but boyish clothes; the Drew and the Faye[1][33]
2017–2020Natacha Ramsay-LeviCreative director, ready-to-wear, leather goods and accessoriesTougher tailoring and leather; the Tess and C bags[34][27][43][44]
2020–2023Gabriela HearstCreative directorLower-impact materials and repurposed stock; credited by the house with its turn to a mission-driven company[35][45][1][36]
2023–Chemena KamaliCreative directorReturn to Lagerfeld's 1970s; the Bracelet hobo; the Paddington reissued[3][40][10][41]

Kamali was born in Dortmund, according to WWD, and took a master's degree in fashion at Central Saint Martins under Louise Wilson, graduating with distinction in 2007.[26][37] WWD traces her career from Philo's Chloé through Alberta Ferretti, Strenesse and Lanvin, back to Chloé under Waight Keller and on to Saint Laurent in 2016.[38] She keeps a collection of nearly 1,500 blouses and, WWD reports, believes that sleeve volume, padding and the placing of a yoke change with society.[46] Announcing her appointment, Richemont quoted her: “My heart has always been Chloé's.”[3]

As of 12 November 2026 Richemont's page for the house credited Kamali as creative director, and her festive collection, with a campaign starring Claudia Schiffer, was due in stores from early November.[2][8]

Among the house's chief executives, Ralph Toledano was chairman in 2006, when FashionUnited also called him chief executive, and Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye led the company in 2014 and 2017.[29][30][18][47] Riccardo Bellini, chief executive when Hearst was hired, left at the end of 2023, and Laurent Malecaze has run Chloé since.[35][9][2]

House codes

The silk blouse

The house dates its silk blouse to the early 1960s and treats it as a core of the Chloé wardrobe.[1] Kamali has made it a subject of study: WWD singled out her blouses with broad shoulders and heavy cuffs in Winter 2025, and Vogue Runway saw them turn Victorian a year later.[46][48] For Summer 2027 she cut lace blouses down to harness-like straps.[49][50]

Flou, lace and broderie anglaise

Soft, fluid silk, which the house calls flou, has been Chloé's ground since Lagerfeld's 1970s dresses with lace inserts.[1] Broderie anglaise, the cotton embroidered with eyelets, goes back further: Kamali traces it to the house's early dresses for young girls, and Vogue Runway, noting that Aghion used eyelet in her first collections of the 1950s, points to versions by Philo for Spring 2002 and Waight Keller for Spring 2015.[49][50] Kamali has said that Lagerfeld used it, with re-embroidered lace, in his Musketeers collection of 1977.[40] Hearst turned it into knitwear and leather edging in 2021, and Kamali made it the main fabric of her Summer 2027 show.[45][38]

The cape

Chloé's history calls the 1970s an ode to the cape, reworked throughout the decade in light silk for summer and soft wool for winter.[1] Drawing on Lagerfeld's capes for her first show, Kamali discovered that he had made dozens of versions, Vogue Runway reported; she has since shown capes and ponchos and, for Summer 2027, transparent capes in smoky vinyl.[40][51][38]

Hand-painted silk and trompe l'oeil

Hand painting runs from Tertulia (1966) and the Astoria dress (1967), whose motifs came from Aubrey Beardsley's illustrations for Le Morte d'Arthur, to the Santorini tulle of 1994.[1][22] The Met notes that 100 to 150 Astoria dresses were made and that each was painted by hand rather than printed.[22] Lagerfeld's trompe l'oeil, a violin, a shower, scissors, belongs to 1983 and 1984, and Ramsay-Levi revived painted dresses in cotton for her debut.[1][21][27]

Scallops

Aghion used scalloped edges on a cotton piqué dress in her 1960 show at the Brasserie Lipp, FashionUnited reported when Hearst brought them back.[45] The third look of Kamali's debut was a scalloped, caped blouse, and for Summer 2027 she took as her starting point a scallop-edged tuxedo from 1972 that the house calls the Noel suit.[40][49]

Names in alphabetical order

From 1958 to 1987 the names of Chloé garments followed the alphabet; Waight Keller reintroduced the habit for accessories in 2012.[1]

Horses, bananas and other talismans

Horses entered the house's vocabulary under McCartney, along with bananas and pineapples, and banana prints returned under Philo for Spring 2004.[19][40][52] Ramsay-Levi embroidered horses on velvet tailoring and leather, and Kamali has recast bananas and pineapples as gilt jewelry and hung bag straps with charms of shells and bananas.[27][53][40][54] The house currently sells a Chain Horse bag and a Bananas jewelry line.[11][55]

The padlock and the gold signature

The padlock survived the Paddington's 2025 reissue as a working lock, and Richemont calls the leather-wrapped padlock the constant of the Winter 2026 versions.[41][2] The Chloé name in gold script is a second signature: WWD reported that Kamali kept on her first mood board a 1978 look belted with the name in gold metal, mentioned gold-script logo belts in Summer 2025 and counted logo belts among the details it found overused in Winter 2025.[26][54][46]

The palette

The house names nude, apricot, ecru and navy as its signature palette, and Vogue Runway described the sand, almond, lemon and coffee tones of Summer 2026 as classically Chloé.[56][57]

Bags

Bags came late to Chloé: the house dates its leather goods to Philo's arrival and its range of bags, small leather goods and shoes to the 2000s.[1] In November 2026 its US site listed more than a dozen lines, the largest being the Marcie, the Spin tote and the Paddington.[11]

StyleIntroducedDesigner or eraWhat it isRef
Silverado2000sCredited to McCartney or listed with Philo's bags (sources differ)A celebrity favorite of the late 2000s, by PurseBlog's account[32][52]
PaddingtonSpring 2005Phoebe PhiloSlouchy bag with an oversized padlock; reissued on the Winter 2025 runway[1][58][41]
EdithPhilo era; revived 2021Phoebe Philo; Gabriela HearstBowler bag that Hearst remade from old stock[52][59]
BettyPhilo eraPhoebe PhiloCarryall with many pockets[52]
Marcie2010 (PurseBlog: 2009)Hannah MacGibbonRounded day bag with a leather tab closure and piped detailing[1][58][32]
ParatyMacGibbon eraHannah MacGibbonA cult favorite of her tenure, by PurseBlog's account[32]
Drew2013, with Fall 2014Clare Waight KellerBag the house ties to its 1970s glamour[1][44]
FayeSpring-Summer 2015Clare Waight KellerDay bag[1][44]
Drew Bijou2017Natacha Ramsay-LeviA reworked Drew[53]
RoyHer first seasonsNatacha Ramsay-LeviHer first new bag for the house, shown again for Fall 2018[53]
TessFall 2018 runwayNatacha Ramsay-LeviSaddle shape combining the Drew and the Faye, with ring hardware[43]
CResort 2019Natacha Ramsay-LeviFlap bag closed by a large gold C[44]
KissSpring 2021Natacha Ramsay-LeviSculptural bag with a gilded handle, from her last collection[60]
Bracelet hoboFall 2024Chemena KamaliSlouchy hobo carried on a removable metal ring, after the bracelet bags of the Philo years[10][40]
Banana (Summer Banana, Chloé Banana)High Summer 2025Chemena KamaliCurved hobo, first in raffia, now also in leather[61][11]
WoodyCurrent lineHouse lineTotes and baskets in linen, canvas and natural fibers[11]
SpinCurrent lineHouse lineTote in many leathers, suede and shearling[11]
Chloé Icons, Chloé Clover, Chloé Rosie, Chloé Heritage, Chloé Plissé, Chloé Moon, Chain HorseCurrent linesHouse linesShoulder, double-carry and saddle bags listed in November 2026[11]

The Paddington

Philo created the Paddington in 2004 for the Spring 2005 collection: an oversized bag with an XXL padlock, in what the house calls a luggage spirit.[32][1] PurseBlog dates its runway debut to Spring 2005 and notes that many attribute the whole era of the It bag to it.[58] Kamali brought it back on the Winter 2025 runway, where Alexa Chung and Tish Weinstock carried the new version.[41][62] By the house's description the reissue keeps a working padlock but has lighter hardware, washed vegetable-tanned leather, a single zip and an adjusted shoulder drop; it was due in stores from September 2025, with a campaign starring Kendall Jenner, Aimee Lou Wood and Anna of the K-pop group MEOVV.[41] WWD found the relaunched bag carried in multiples on that runway, and Richemont lists new materials and deep winter colors for Winter 2026.[46][2]

The Marcie

The house introduced the Marcie in 2010 as a round day bag; PurseBlog, which dates it to 2009, credits its design to Hannah MacGibbon and identifies it by its leather tab closure and piped detailing.[1][32][58] In December 2025 PurseBlog reported that the line had been reworked two years earlier with a softer, slouchier body, keeping the saddle stitching and the hand-wrapped handle.[63] The family now runs from saddle bags to east-west and hobo shapes.[11]

The Drew, the Faye and the Tess

Waight Keller's two hits were the Drew, which the house presented in 2013 with Fall 2014, and the Faye, from Spring-Summer 2015.[1][44] Ramsay-Levi kept both in circulation, adding a Drew Bijou in 2017, before combining their shapes in the Tess, which debuted on her Fall 2018 runway with shiny O-ring hardware.[53][43] Her C bag, closed by an oversized gold C, followed for Resort 2019, and the Kiss, with a sculpted gilded handle, came from her final collection.[44][60]

Kamali's bags

Kamali's first handbag lineup, for Fall 2024, introduced the Bracelet hobo, a slouchy leather hobo cinched by a removable metal ring handle; Vogue Runway's Sarah Mower traced the debut's bracelet bags to the Philo years.[10][40] Her first High Summer collection, in 2025, added the raffia Banana bag, and the house now sells the Chloé Banana in leather beside the raffia Summer Banana.[61][11] WWD described clam-shaped shoulder bags strung with charms in her Summer 2025 show, and for Summer 2027 she punched broderie anglaise eyelets into leather handbags.[54][38]

The Woody

The Woody is a house line of totes and baskets in linen, canvas and natural fibers, sold beside a Woody mule.[11][13]

Shoes

Shoes arrived with the accessories of the 2000s, and the wedge, introduced in March 2006, went on to define Chloé footwear for seasons afterwards, by the house's account.[1] Kamali's shows have since added kitten-heel clogs, jelly sandals and ballet flats.[40][64][62]

StyleIntroducedDesigner or eraWhat it isRef
WedgesMarch 2006HouseWedges evoking the 1970s[1]
Cannage leather bootsSpring 2018Natacha Ramsay-LeviBoots in cannage leather[27]
Kitten-heel clogs, thigh-high bootsWinter 2024Chemena KamaliLate-1970s shapes from her debut[40]
Jelly sandalsSummer 2025Chemena KamaliKitten-heel jelly sandals; now also jelly mules[64][13]
Wooden platformsSummer 2025Chemena KamaliTall platforms carved with messages[54]
Ballet flatsWinter 2025Chemena KamaliFlats worn on the runway with the reissued Paddington[62]
Western and Musketeer bootsWinter 2026Chemena KamaliWestern boots and thigh-high boots, with clogs[48]
Eyelet bootsSummer 2027Chemena KamaliTall boots punched with broderie anglaise eyelets[38]
SusannaCurrent lineHouse lineAnkle boots, flats, pumps and sandals finished with studs and buckles[12][13]
WoodyCurrent lineHouse lineFlat and heeled mules[13]
Nama and KickCurrent linesHouse linesSneakers; the Nama also as wedge sneakers, sandals and boots[13]
BettyCurrent lineHouse lineRain boot[13]
Jeannette, Maxime, Dakota, EveCurrent linesHouse linesWedge clogs, wedge sandals and boots[13]

Wedges and clogs

The house describes its 2006 wedges as evoking the 1970s.[1] Kamali's debut paired boot-cut flares with kitten-heel clogs, her Winter 2026 models wore clogs with woolen hose, and the US site now sells Jeannette wedge clogs, Maxime wedges and Nama wedge sneakers.[40][51][13]

The Susanna

The house describes studs and buckles as the Susanna line's emblems; its current ankle boot pairs them with an elongated toe and a Cuban heel for what Chloé calls a cowboy attitude.[12] The line also comes as a flat, a pump and a sandal.[13]

Sneakers, mules and rain boots

Beside the runway pieces the house keeps a line of casual shoes: Nama and Kick sneakers, Woody mules, Betty rain boots and Chloé Jelly mules and sandals.[13]

Ready-to-wear

Aghion's first collections offered relaxed silhouettes in good fabrics, and the loose silk trousers of the mid-1960s, by the house's account, began the play between feminine and masculine dress that runs through Chloé.[1] Lagerfeld's 1970s were soft silk dresses with lace inserts and capes, while Sitbon drew on historical menswear and cabaret.[1] McCartney added vintage lingerie and low-rise trousers, Philo set sheer silk dresses against masculine tailoring, and MacGibbon returned to a polished 1970s softness.[1] Sarah Mower of Vogue Runway singled out the washed-silk skirts, tiny Victorian military jackets and cream plissé dress of Philo's Spring 2005 collection.[25]

Waight Keller's clothes mixed fluid femininity with a boyish edge, and her Fall-Winter 2016 collection added leather motorcycle trousers.[1] Ramsay-Levi's debut favored tailored leather outerwear and cropped jeans stitched with the letter O.[27] Hearst's first collection removed virgin polyester and viscose, used organic silk for more than half its silk and recycled yarn for more than 80 percent of its cashmere, and had a fifth of the ready-to-wear made by fair-trade members of the World Fair Trade Organization.[45] Vogue Runway described ponchos with puffer collars, collage-like scalloping and outerwear remade from Chloé overstock with Sheltersuit, a nonprofit that aids homeless people.[59]

Vogue Runway credits Kamali with making the drifting chiffon dress a central pillar of the business, and notes that she has kept the house's high-rise boot-cut trousers, another lasting staple.[57][50] Her collections have moved from late-1970s Lagerfeld to draped cotton poplin in 2025 and Dutch folk dress in 2026, and her Spring 2027 collection, in stores from November 2026, returned to the tailoring of the late 1990s, when Edward Sexton worked in the Chloé atelier.[40][65][66][48][28] Models at the Summer 2026 fittings liked her draped bodies so much, Vogue Runway reported, that she turned them into a swim collection.[57]

Jewelry and accessories

Gold jewelry and charms recur through Kamali's collections. Her first show recast McCartney-era bananas and pineapples as gilt jewelry, and for Summer 2025 she hung bag straps with gold charms of broken shells, stones and bananas.[40][54] WWD felt that the Winter 2025 looks carried too many dangling gold chains, logo belts and talismans.[46] The house's jewelry lines in November 2026 included Found Treasures, Tulip, Mini Paddington, Bananas, Chain Horse and Cœur de Chloé.[55] Hearst's debut had taken a different line: handmade ceramic buttons, also used as pendants on handbags, and healing-crystal necklaces.[45][59]

Chloé eyewear was made by Marchon Eyewear for nine years, the period of the Carlina, Poppy and Rosie styles; Kering Eyewear took over design, production and distribution with the Spring-Summer 2021 collection, delivered from January 2021.[14] Kamali's Summer 2027 capes in smoky transparent vinyl drew, WWD reported, on Chloé sunglasses.[38]

Fragrance and beauty

The first Chloé fragrance, a floral, went on sale in April 1975, and the Guardian's obituary of Lagerfeld notes that it raised his income.[1][20] The fragrances are licensed to Coty Prestige.[15] The bestselling scent, Chloé signature, was launched in 2008 and built around rose by the perfumer Michel Almairac of Robertet; for L'Eau de Parfum Intense, which WWD previewed in August 2024, he and his son Romain reworked it, and its refillable bottle keeps the original's grosgrain ribbon.[15] WWD also lists the Nomade family and the Atelier des Fleurs line, which Coty extended in March 2026 with four Mediterranean scents called Les Essences Méditerranéennes.[15][67]

Archive and exhibitions

Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye told the South China Morning Post in 2017 that, as chief executive, he had asked his team to build an archive from pieces left in a warehouse, and had commissioned a book and the Palais de Tokyo exhibition.[47] That exhibition, Chloé Attitudes, marked the house's 60th anniversary in 2012.[1][4] On 2 July 2017 Chloé opened Maison Chloé, a five-level building at 28 rue de la Baume in the 8th arrondissement, as a home for its archive and for exhibitions; the first, Femininities – Guy Bourdin, was curated by Judith Clark.[68][47]

The Metropolitan Museum of Art holds Lagerfeld's Chloé work from an evening dress of Fall-Winter 1967–68 made with Maison Hurel to a Scissors dress of 1984, bought in 2023.[69][70] Its 2023 exhibition Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty (5 May to 16 July) included Chloé alongside Balmain, Patou, Fendi and Chanel, with the hand-painted Astoria dress among the pieces shown.[71][22] At Homo Faber 2026, Richemont reports, Chloé showed a raffia piece made with the Madagascar studio Made For A Woman.[2] Lou Stoppard's Chloe: The Complete Collections, a catwalk history of the house, was published by Yale University Press in 2022.[72] From 13 October 2023 to 18 February 2024 the Jewish Museum in New York held Mood of the moment: Gaby Aghion and the house of Chloé, which it described as the first museum exhibition honoring the founder, with nearly 150 garments, sketches and documents from the Chloé Archive and a closing section of some 50 Chloé blouses.[73]

Signature pieces

  1. Embrun shirt-dress, 1960: designed by Aghion with Maxime de La Falaise and cut like a T-shirt.[1]
  2. The silk blouse, early 1960s: which the house calls an essential part of the Chloé wardrobe.[1]
  3. Tertulia dress, Spring-Summer 1966: Lagerfeld's hand-painted Art Nouveau dress, made a year after his arrival.[1]
  4. Astoria dress, Spring-Summer 1967: ivory silk crepe de chine hand-painted after Aubrey Beardsley; 100 to 150 were made.[22]
  5. Rachmaninoff dress, 1973: graphic black-and-white motifs with a matching scarf tied around the head.[1]
  6. The cape, 1970s: reworked in silk and wool throughout the decade.[1]
  7. Angkor dress, Spring-Summer 1983: Lagerfeld's trompe l'oeil violin, recreated for Olivia Wilde at the 2023 Met Gala.[1][74]
  8. Buée dress, Fall-Winter 1983–84: the shower dress, with an embroidered shower head and hose.[21]
  9. Ciseaux (Scissors) dress, Spring-Summer 1984: from the sewing-themed collection that closed Lagerfeld's first tenure.[1][70]
  10. Paddington bag, Spring 2005: Philo's padlocked bag, reissued in 2025.[1][41]
  11. The wedge, 2006: the shoe that shaped Chloé footwear for years after.[1]
  12. Marcie bag, 2010: the round day bag of MacGibbon's tenure.[1][32]

Runway

Kamali has shown six runway collections, which Chloé names Winter and Summer and the Paris calendar files as Fall-Winter and Spring-Summer.[37][49][75] Four earlier shows follow.

Summer 2027, Paris: Obsession

Shown on 1 October 2026 in the gardens of the Paris Observatory, the collection was, in Kamali's notes, a tour of her obsessions with the house.[75][76][49] Broderie anglaise dominated: on blouses, nightshirt dresses and harness tops, layered with guipure lace, three-dimensional flowers and tassels, and punched into bags and boots.[38] The outerwear came from fishermen's coats and sou'westers, with transparent capes in smoky vinyl, and the starting point for the tailoring was a scalloped tuxedo of 1972.[49][38] Vogue Runway's Sarah Mower counted eight huge raincoats and a standing ovation, and WWD's Miles Socha found the show breezy and confident.[50][38] Claudia Schiffer, Cynthia Erivo and Emma Mackey were among the guests.[76]

Winter 2026, Paris: Devotion

Shown on 5 March 2026 in a brutalist auditorium at the Maison de l'UNESCO, the collection drew on Dutch folk costume, craft and community, which Kamali called devotion.[77][51][78] Vogue Runway described tiered mousseline skirts, faded check prints, hand-knit Tyrolean sweaters and Victorian blouses, worn with clogs, Western boots and thigh-high Musketeer boots.[48] Kamali tied the detachable shoulder yokes on the opening blazers to the Dutch kraplap and to knitted jackets in Lagerfeld's 1978 collection, WWD reported, and its critic found the show at times overcharged and repetitive.[51] Oprah Winfrey, Brooke Shields and Aimee Lou Wood sat in the front row.[51]

Summer 2026, Paris: entre deux

Shown on 5 October 2025 in a conference room at UNESCO, the collection asked what couture could mean for a house founded on ready-to-wear, using couture draping on plain cotton poplin and redrawn floral prints of the 1950s and 1960s.[79][66] Vogue Runway noted swimwear-inspired bodies, bags shaped like 1950s swimming caps and heels that doubled as pool slides.[57] WWD found a few looks bunchy but praised the risk.[65]

Winter 2025, Paris

Shown on 6 March 2025, the collection imagined a British aristocrat in her castle, throwing on Victorian jackets, slip dresses and family jewelry on chatelaine chains, before switching to the shoulder pads and pussycat-bow blouses of the early 1980s.[80][62] Alexa Chung and Tish Weinstock walked in the new ballet flats carrying the reissued Paddington.[62] WWD praised the blouses but found many looks overloaded with chains and charms, and asked for less retro.[46]

Summer 2025, Paris

Shown on 26 September 2024 at the Tennis Club de Paris, the collection worked from Aghion's bubble shapes of the late 1950s and Lagerfeld's lace of the late 1970s, including his waist shapers of Spring 1977 and lace bloomers of Spring 1978.[81][54][64] WWD's Miles Socha called it another winner, and Nicole Phelps of Vogue Runway a confident evolution of the debut.[54][64] Sienna Miller, Natalia Vodianova and Liya Kebede sat in the front row.[54]

Winter 2024, Paris: Kamali's debut

Kamali's first show, on 29 February 2024, was titled Intuition and paid homage to Lagerfeld's Chloé of 1977 to 1979: a scalloped, caped blouse with boot-cut flares, mousseline dresses over shorts and thigh-high boots.[39][40] WWD's Miles Socha wrote that she nailed it, and Philippe Aghion, the founder's son, and Martine Sitbon were in the audience.[26] Jerry Hall, Pat Cleveland, Sienna Miller and Alexa Chung also attended.[40]

Fall-Winter 2021, Paris: Gabriela Hearst's debut

Hearst's first collection was presented as a film, with models walking out of the Brasserie Lipp, where Aghion had shown, across Saint-Germain-des-Prés; it also marked a century since Aghion's birth.[59][45]

Spring 2005, Paris: Phoebe Philo

Vogue Runway's Sarah Mower wrote that Philo had found her stride and that the collection had the elusive quality of It, from a coat with military buttons to the draped green satin dress that closed the show; she also noted new investment from Richemont, the parent company.[25]

Spring-Summer 1984, Paris: Lagerfeld's sewing collection

Lagerfeld's last collection of his first tenure turned scissors, thimbles, pincushions and spools into surreal accessories and embroidered dresses within dresses.[23]

Spring-Summer 1958, Paris: the Café de Flore

By the house's account, Aghion staged Chloé's first show, for Spring-Summer 1958, at the Café de Flore in 1957; the Guardian has her showing a collection at breakfast there in 1956, and AnOther dates the first show to that year.[1][4][19] The house's history also quotes The New York Times on a Chloé show at the Closerie des Lilas, where the models moved between the tables of the press.[1]

Celebrities and the red carpet

  • Daisy Edgar-Jones: a beige minidress from Chloé's Spring 2026 collection while promoting Sense and Sensibility in London, September 2026.[82]
  • Emilia Jones: a powder-pink draped dress from the same collection at a BAFTA dinner in London, February 2026.[83]
  • Olivia Wilde: a sheer lace gown from Chloé's Spring-Summer 2025 collection at the Vanity Fair Oscar Party after the Academy Awards, March 2025.[84]
  • Kamala Harris: a custom navy wool suit and matching pussy-bow blouse by Kamali to accept the Democratic presidential nomination in Chicago, 22 August 2024.[85]
  • Kamala Harris: a custom brown wool two-piece by Kamali on the first day of the Democratic National Convention in Chicago, August 2024.[86][85]
  • Kamala Harris: a custom floor-length gown with a matching jacket cape by Kamali at a White House state dinner, May 2024.[86]
  • Sienna Miller: a tiered lace gown from the Fall-Winter 2024 collection at the Met Gala, New York, 6 May 2024, where she walked the carpet with Kamali.[87]
  • Olivia Wilde: a recreation of Lagerfeld's Spring 1983 violin dress at the Met Gala, New York, May 2023.[74]
  • Vanessa Kirby: Lagerfeld's 1983 trompe l'oeil shower dress at the same Met Gala, May 2023.[74]

Chloé's campaigns name its faces. Claudia Schiffer, a Friend of the House, fronted the High Summer 2025 campaign and the festive campaign of November 2026.[61][8] Kendall Jenner, Aimee Lou Wood and Anna of MEOVV starred in the 2025 Paddington campaign, Grace Hartzel in Winter 2025, and Kaia Gerber, Rianne Van Rompaey and Yar Aguer in Kamali's first runway campaign.[41][88][89]

Sizing and fit

Chloé numbers women's clothing from 34 to 46, the numbers its jeans chart lists as French sizes, and includes the in-between sizes 37 and 39; its size guide converts them as follows.[90][91]

Chloé (FR)USITUKDEJP
342386327
364408349
3754193510
38642103611
39743113712
40844123813
421046144015
441248164217
461450184419

Jeans are sized by waist, with two waist sizes to each French size from 24 and 25 (FR 34) to 32 and 33 (FR 42), and 34 alone matching FR 44.[91] Shoes run from 35 to 45, in half sizes up to 44. Up to 37 the US size is the European size minus 30, but from 38 the gap narrows, so a 38 is a US 7.5 and a 40 a US 9.5; the chart gives no US size for 37.5, lists both 41 and 41.5 as a US 10.5, and gives foot lengths from 22.2 cm for a 35 to 28.6 cm for a 45.[92] Rings are sold in US sizes from 2 to 12.5, matched to measurements of 43 to 68 millimeters.[93]

Shopping Chloé on Vêtir

Vêtir carries Chloé across Chloé bags, Chloé clothing, Chloé shoes, Chloé accessories, Chloé jewelry and Chloé beauty, all gathered on the Chloé designer page. The modules below show the newest Chloé bags, shoes, dresses and jewelry each time this page loads.

For buying advice rather than history, our Chloé guide compares the Paddington and Marcie sizes, the boots and the house's size conversions. Our editors also cover Chloé boots in the best fall boots, its capes in how to wear a cape coat, its clogs in how to wear clogs and the Obsession show in our Paris Fashion Week report, and compare silk blouses from other houses in the best silk blouses. Browse every house's blouses, capes and boots, or ask our AI stylist to build an outfit around a Chloé piece you own.

Frequently asked questions

Who owns Chloé?

Chloé belongs to Compagnie Financière Richemont, which lists it among its maisons and counts a network of 182 Chloé stores. The founder, Gaby Aghion, sold her share of the company to Dunhill in 1985. Richemont was founded in 1988, and Vogue already called it Chloé's parent company in 2004. As of November 2026 Richemont names Laurent Malecaze as Chloé's chief executive.[2][4][24][25]

Who is the creative director of Chloé?

Chemena Kamali has been Chloé's creative director since the house announced her appointment on 9 October 2023, and Richemont still credited her in November 2026. Born in Germany in 1981, she had worked at Chloé under Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller, then from 2016 at Saint Laurent. She showed her first runway collection for the house in Paris on 29 February 2024.[3][2][37][39]

Who founded Chloé, and when?

Gaby Aghion, born in Alexandria, Egypt, in 1921, founded Chloé in Paris in 1952 with her business partner Jacques Lenoir. She started with six cotton sample dresses that she sold to boutiques from a suitcase, and named the label after a friend, Chloé Huysmans. She sold her share of the company in 1985 and retired.[1][5][4][6]

What is Chloé known for?

Chloé is known for luxury ready-to-wear in a soft register: fluid silk dresses with lace inserts, the silk blouse it introduced in the early 1960s and the cape, a 1970s signature. Since 2005 it has also been known for bags, above all Phoebe Philo's padlocked Paddington and Hannah MacGibbon's Marcie, and for the wedges it introduced in 2006.[1][32]

What is the most famous Chloé bag?

The Paddington, released for Spring 2005 under Phoebe Philo, is the house's best-known bag; Chloé calls it the first It bag, and AnOther reports that the house's sales rose 60 percent worldwide that year. Chemena Kamali reissued it on the Winter 2025 runway with lighter hardware, washed vegetable-tanned leather, a working padlock and a single zip.[1][19][41]

How does Chloé sizing work?

Chloé's size guide numbers women's clothing from 34 to 46, including 37 and 39, and converts a 36 to US 4, IT 40 and UK 8 and a 38 to US 6, IT 42 and UK 10. Shoes run from 35 to 45; a 38 is a US 7.5, and the chart gives no US size for 37.5.[90][92]

Which designers have led Chloé?

After the founder, Gaby Aghion, Chloé's principal designers have been Karl Lagerfeld (1964 to 1983 and 1992 to 1997), Martine Sitbon, Stella McCartney, Phoebe Philo, Paulo Melim Andersson, Hannah MacGibbon, Clare Waight Keller, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Gabriela Hearst and, since 2023, Chemena Kamali. Vogue Runway has called the house a launching pad for the designers who pass through it.[1][4][27]

When did Karl Lagerfeld design for Chloé?

By Chloé's account Karl Lagerfeld arrived in 1964, became sole designer in 1974 and ended his first tenure with the Spring-Summer 1984 collection, after which he concentrated on Chanel. He returned from 1992 to 1997. The Met describes a partnership of 24 years on and off; other sources date his start to 1963 or 1966.[1][20][22][21][4]

Is Chloé a B Corp?

Yes. Chloé became a certified B Corporation in October 2021, after adopting a purpose-driven model in June 2020, and said it was the first luxury house to do so. Its sustainability page says the certification was confirmed for a second time in October 2024.[16][17]

References

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Last reviewed November 12, 2026 by Vêtir Editors.