The Tom Ford Guide: The Suits, the Padlock Sandal, the Bags and Who Designs the House Now

Tom Ford is the American house the designer founded in 2005, after a decade running Gucci, and since 2023 three companies have shared it: The Estée Lauder Companies owns the name, the Zegna Group makes and sells the clothes under licence, and Marcolin makes the eyewear. Tom Ford himself stepped away that year, and Haider Ackermann has been creative director since September 2024. Buy what the house has always done best: close-cut tailoring, evening clothes, hardware-led bags and shoes, and sunglasses with the T at the hinge. For a first piece, men should start with a navy or charcoal Shelton or O'Connor suit, women with a black Padlock sandal or a black jersey gown. Below: who runs the house, the signatures for men and women, how the sizing runs at each retailer and what is worth the money.

Tom Ford at a glance

A short history of Tom Ford, from Gucci to Estée Lauder and Zegna

• 1990 to 2004: Ford joins Gucci in 1990 and becomes its creative director in 1994; after the Gucci Group buys Yves Saint Laurent in 1999, he designs that house too, until he and chief executive Domenico De Sole leave in April 2004, after contract talks with the group's owner failed.
• 2005: he announces his own house in April, joined by De Sole, and starts with eyewear and beauty, signing Marcolin for frames and sunglasses and Estée Lauder for a beauty line that launches in 2006, according to Estée Lauder's history of the brand.
• 2007: the first store opens in April at 845 Madison Avenue in New York with the debut of the menswear, made by the Zegna Group, alongside made-to-measure and Tom Ford Beauty, the trade paper TextilWirtschaft reported.
• 2010: women's ready-to-wear arrives in September with an intimate show at the Madison Avenue store, where Ford introduced each of the 32 looks himself, W magazine reported.
• 2022 to 2023: Estée Lauder agrees in November 2022 to buy the brand in a deal valuing it at $2.8 billion and completes it on April 28, 2023, licensing fashion to the Zegna Group and eyewear to Marcolin, according to Estée Lauder's announcement. Ford presents his last collection that April. Peter Hawkings, who had worked with him since joining Gucci's menswear team in 1998, becomes creative director, makes his runway debut in Milan on September 21, 2023, and leaves in July 2024.
• 2024 to 2026: Haider Ackermann, the Colombian-born French designer known for his own label, is named creative director on September 4, 2024, in charge of menswear, womenswear, accessories and eyewear, Euronews reported. Ford, who had chosen him, attended his first show in Paris on March 5, 2025, WWD noted. He has shown in Paris every season since, most recently spring 2027, at Place Vendôme on September 30, 2026.

Who owns Tom Ford, and why it matters when you shop

Estée Lauder owns the brand and runs Tom Ford Beauty. The Zegna Group runs Tom Ford Fashion end to end, from design and production to stores and wholesale, under an exclusive long-term licence that also covers fine jewelry, textiles and home design; Marcolin holds the eyewear licence. For a shopper the point is continuity: Zegna held the Tom Ford menswear licence before 2023, WWD noted this October, and made the menswear in the first store.

Tom Ford under Haider Ackermann: what has changed

Ackermann has kept the house's two pillars, tailoring and evening, and loosened them. His first collection mixed leather sportswear with pinstripe suits and gave slim women's suits, in acid colors and pastels, his own narrow, pinched shoulder. Fall 2026 doubled down on dark pinstripe suits and white shirts. For spring 2027 he sent out suits worn with nothing underneath, silk robes and, for the first time on his runway, swimwear, WWD reported. "Seduction is the pillar on which this house is built," he said of that collection, AnOther reported.

Tom Ford suits: the O'Connor, the Shelton and the Atticus

Tom Ford names its men's tailoring after the block, or base pattern, it is cut on, and the name stays the same whatever the cloth. The O'Connor and the Shelton both come with notch or peak lapels, so choose the block for fit and the lapel separately. The department stores will not settle it: Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman call both blocks "modern fit" and list trousers from both as "slim fit". What the listings do say:

• O'Connor: Mr Porter describes its O'Connor suit trousers as cut "in a streamlined silhouette". Our stylists' judgement, not a house size chart: it is the leaner of the two blocks, with the narrower shoulder, and it suits a slim or medium build best.
• Shelton: Mr Porter says the jacket is named for "the signature block it's tailored on", gives it lightly padded shoulders and flags it as small to size. Our stylists' judgement: the built-up shoulder carries a broader frame better; given that note, try the next size up too.
• Atticus: Mr Porter presents its double-breasted pinstripe Atticus as part of Ackermann's renewed focus on suiting: wide peak lapels and a neat, tapered waist.

Budget for a tailor: many suits are sold with unfinished sleeves and trouser hems, by their listings. And conversions differ: Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman list several suits as 52R EU (41R US) and 54R EU (43R US) but some sport coats as 52 EU (42 US), so in our experience the European number and your chest measurement are safer guides than the US figure in brackets.

• Work: a slate-gray O'Connor, a white poplin shirt, a black knit tie and black Double T loafers.
• Dinner: a navy Shelton with a black cashmere-silk knit polo buttoned to the top and black croc-effect loafers.
• A party: the Atticus pinstripe jacket over an open white shirt and black trousers.

See every house's cuts in men's suits, and the softer tailoring of the group that makes these in our Zegna guide.

Tom Ford tuxedos and evening jackets

In our view, evening is where Tom Ford is hardest to beat: its tuxedos come in the same named blocks as its suits, so a man who knows his O'Connor or Shelton size is most of the way to a dinner suit. Buy the plain black shawl-collar tuxedo first; Mytheresa sells it as a two-piece in wool with 4 percent elastane, made in Switzerland, with a single vent. The rest show Ackermann's side of the house: a double-breasted tuxedo jacket in polka-dot silk-duchesse satin with broad shoulders and a pinched waist, a wool jacquard polka-dot sport coat, a double-breasted houndstooth jacket with sequins worked into the check, and a brushed cashmere, mohair and silk knitted blazer that wears like a jacket and feels like a cardigan. The Shelton evening jacket is a light velvet in cotton and polyester.

Our stylists' rule is one statement piece per evening, with everything else plain and in the jacket's own ground color. Under the black jacquard or the houndstooth, that means black trousers, a white shirt and black patent shoes. Under the espresso polka-dot satin, it means dark brown trousers, a white shirt and dark brown suede loafers. For black-tie rules, lapels and shirts, read our guide to men's tuxedos; for every December dress code, men's holiday party outfits and what to wear on New Year's Eve.

Tom Ford menswear beyond the suit: knit polos and fine knits

Tom Ford's polos come in two kinds. The piqué polo is lyocell, with a spread collar, a three-button placket, side vents of uneven length and a small TF embroidered at the hem, by Bergdorf Goodman's listing. Lyocell is a cellulose fiber made from wood pulp; in our experience it drapes more softly than cotton piqué. The knitted polos, in cashmere and silk or fine cashmere, are the house's answer to a shirt and tie under a jacket.

• A gray cashmere-silk polo under a charcoal suit, top button done.
• The navy piqué polo with gray flannel trousers and white leather sneakers.
• The black wool-cashmere half-zip under a navy overcoat, with dark gray trousers.

Fit note: Tom Ford sizes men's knits in numbers. Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman mostly use US sizes from 36 to 50 (a few listings give the European size first), Mr Porter Italian sizes from IT 44 to IT 60. Neiman Marcus describes the fine cashmere polo as relaxed, with dropped shoulders, so we would not size up.

Tom Ford shoes for men: loafers, Chelsea boots and the patent evening loafer

Three shapes lead Tom Ford's men's shoes. The day loafers carry the house hardware, such as the Double T across the vamp, or keep it plain, like the Sean, a suede penny loafer on a rubber sole that Saks lists in midnight, and the Gigi, a leather penny loafer with a twisted strap. The Dagger is a Chelsea boot with an upturned toe and a Cuban heel that came down the fall 2025 runway, according to Mr Porter. The Edgar is the evening shoe: a patent loafer with, in Neiman Marcus's description, a grosgrain strap across the vamp and a stacked heel. Wear it with the tuxedo.

• Espresso Gigi loafers with gray flannel trousers, an ivory crewneck and a camel coat.
• Black Dagger boots under slim black trousers and a black leather jacket.
• White Blake sneakers with the navy piqué polo and pale gray chinos.

Fit note: read the listing you buy from. Mr Porter flags the Dagger as small to size; Saks suggests half a size up in its patent loafers and patent oxfords; Neiman Marcus says its Edgar patent loafers run large and suggests a size down.

Shop the full range of Tom Ford for men.

Tom Ford for women: tailoring

In our view, women's tailoring is where Ackermann has been most persuasive, and in July the Zegna Group's chief executive, Gianluca Tagliabue, said women's ready-to-wear is the category "growing the most", WWD reported. The cut is close at the waist, with a defined shoulder and long, straight trousers. Several pieces in our edit are labeled Made in Switzerland: the wool-mohair pinstripe blazer and trousers, the corded chalkstripe suit with what Saks calls Western-inspired seaming, the ivory double-breasted jacket and the olive wool-cashmere suit (Saks calls it ivy green). The black jacket with ivory silk lapels and no buttons is the house's take on a woman's tuxedo, worn open.

• The pinstripe suit with a white shirt, black Padlock sandals at night and Ripley loafers by day.
• The contrast-lapel jacket over a black slip dress, or black wide trousers and a black silk camisole.
• The ivory double-breasted jacket with black grain de poudre trousers and black T pumps.
• The olive suit with a cream fine-gauge knit and burgundy patent Padlock sandals.

Fit note: Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman mostly give Tom Ford women's sizes as the Italian number alone; where they add a US size, they read 38 (4), 40 (6) and 42 (8). In our experience most Italian-sized listings put a 40 at a US 4, so check before you order your usual number. Saks sells the tailoring in US sizes, Net-a-Porter in Italian ones. Buy jackets for the shoulder and have the sleeve and waist adjusted.

Tom Ford eveningwear for women: jersey gowns, silk and satin

Tom Ford's evening line is built on jersey and silk, cut close and opened at the back. Read the composition: the crepe jersey gowns in our edit are viscose, by their listings, which drapes beautifully but shows every line underneath, so plan seamless underwear and size for the hips. The black peach-feel silk gown has a strappy open back with a signature T detail. The polka-dot slip dress is a silk blend with lace trim. The lilac satin gown, with crystal straps worn like a necklace, is a Net-a-Porter exclusive.

• A black jersey gown with the python-embossed Jean clutch and gold earrings.
• The royal-blue cap-sleeve gown with black Padlock sandals and a black satin clutch.
• The espresso long-sleeved gown with gold sandals and gold jewelry; its mock neck needs no necklace.

Care, in our experience: store jersey gowns folded or over a padded bar rather than hanging by the straps, because viscose jersey lengthens under its own weight. The Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman listings recommend professional or dry cleaning.

More long dresses from every house in designer gowns.

Tom Ford bags: the Kara, Tara, Mia, Arc, Audrey, Aube and Jean

Most current Tom Ford bags are built around a T: a hanging T on the Kara, a T strap on the Tara and Audrey, a T clasp on the Mia, T hardware on the Arc's strap and on the Jean, and a double T on the Aube. Measurements below come from the listings in our edit.

Two notes from the listings: the Tara Small hobo combines grain leather with polyurethane trim and lining, and the Audrey tote is lined in polyester. Buy black first. A cognac Arc makes a good second bag; by our stylists' rule, wear it with cream, gray, olive or burgundy rather than black or navy. An ivory Kara goes with almost anything.

Compare other houses' in designer shoulder bags.

Tom Ford shoes for women: Padlock sandals, T pumps and Vertigo boots

The Padlock is the Tom Ford shoe to know: a barely-there sandal whose ankle strap carries a small gold padlock, on a slim metal stiletto. Saks sells it with 85 and 105 millimeter heels and calls the padlock the house's "signature lock hardware". The pump to know is the T, set on what Net-a-Porter calls the house's "signature 'T' stiletto heel". The Vertigo is a 105 millimeter croc-embossed stiletto boot, and the Ripley a suede loafer on a 15 millimeter heel for days on foot.

Fit note: the retailers disagree about the Padlock. Saks says of its Padlock 85 and 105 sandals that "this brand fits slightly smaller" and to consider ordering half a size up. Neiman Marcus says its Padlock Metallic Stiletto Sandals run large ("consider ordering a size down"), yet says the gold version, which it lists as the Lock Metallic Stiletto Sandals, runs small ("consider ordering a size up"). Bergdorf Goodman lists European sizes with US equivalents, a 37 as a US 7. In our experience the single strap across the toes has no give, so if you are between sizes and the listing has no note, try both.

More evening sandals in designer heeled sandals.

Tom Ford sunglasses: the T hinge, and how to read the size

Tom Ford eyewear is made in Italy under licence by Marcolin, and most frames carry the metal T at the hinge or the temple. The Icon collection makes that T three-dimensional on chunky acetate; the Fausto is a thick, square acetate frame; the Gia is a semi-rimless butterfly that, by its listing, takes prescription lenses; the Clark and Evangeline are metal frames for a lighter look. The black Bronson in our edit has category 1 blue lenses, by Mytheresa's listing: a light tint for overcast days rather than bright sun.

Read the three numbers on the listing before you order. The Icon cat-eye reads 52-21-140: a 52 millimeter lens, a 21 millimeter bridge and 140 millimeter arms. Compare them with the numbers inside the arm of a pair that fits; in our experience a lens within two or three millimeters and the same bridge sit alike. For lens categories, polarization and fit across every house, read our guide to the best designer sunglasses.

Every house's frames are in designer sunglasses.

How Tom Ford sizing runs

Tom Ford reaches Vêtir through several retailers, and each labels sizes its own way. The listings we checked in October 2026:

To build a whole look around one Tom Ford piece, ask our AI stylist, or book one of our personal stylists to talk through fit.

Is Tom Ford worth it? What to buy first

Tom Ford is worth it for the cut, so spend where the cut shows: tailoring, a gown, an evening jacket. In order, we would buy:

1. Men: a navy or charcoal Shelton or O'Connor suit, properly altered; then a plain shawl-collar tuxedo; then a cashmere-silk knit polo to wear under both.
2. Women: a black jersey or silk gown; then a pinstripe suit you can wear as separates; then a black Padlock sandal.
3. A bag: a black Kara or Tara, which carries the T without shouting.
4. A way in under $1,000: sunglasses, or the lyocell piqué polo.
5. For one season: the sequin houndstooth jacket, the polka-dot satin tuxedo jacket, the lilac crystal gown or the embellished Selen pumps: party pieces, not investments.

The mistake we see most is three signatures at once: a logo knit, a T-hardware bag and a Padlock sandal. Pick one hardware piece per outfit and keep the rest plain; this house looks most like itself when it looks spare.

And Tom Ford Beauty?

Tom Ford Beauty, with the Private Blend fragrances and the lipsticks, is a separate business run by Estée Lauder, which WWD says has had it since 2006.

If you like Tom Ford, look at these houses too

• Gucci, where Ford made his name; see our Gucci guide.
• Saint Laurent, which he also designed, for the women's tuxedo at its source; see our Saint Laurent guide.
• Zegna, which makes Tom Ford's clothes and cuts its own suits softer.
• Brioni, for Roman tailoring with the same evening polish.
• Khaite and The Row for women's tailoring with the same precision and less glamour.

How we chose

This guide covers Tom Ford alone, every piece new and from an allowlisted retailer when we built it. We chose by line rather than by season: each suit block, each current bag family, the Padlock and T shoes, the knit polo and the T-hinge eyewear, plus the Ackermann pieces that show where the house is heading. We viewed every photograph and left out listings that contradicted their names, such as a black piqué polo that photographs bright blue; where only the color name is off, as with an "ivy green" suit that photographs olive, we describe the photograph. One Tom Ford piece is often sold by several stores, so we skipped any piece already chosen, under another store's listing, for our other guides. Fit notes are credited to the retailers that wrote them.

Frequently asked questions

Who owns Tom Ford now?

The Estée Lauder Companies, which completed its purchase of the brand on April 28, 2023. It licenses the fashion business to the Zegna Group and the eyewear to Marcolin, and runs Tom Ford Beauty itself.

Who is the creative director of Tom Ford?

Haider Ackermann, named on September 4, 2024. He succeeded Peter Hawkings, who held the role from April 2023 to July 2024 after Tom Ford stepped away. Ackermann's first collection was shown in Paris on March 5, 2025.

Is Tom Ford made by Zegna?

Yes, the clothes and accessories: the Zegna Group runs Tom Ford Fashion under a long-term licence from Estée Lauder. The suits are labeled Made in Italy or Made in Switzerland, piece by piece.

What is the difference between the O'Connor and Shelton suits?

They are different blocks, or base patterns. Mr Porter describes O'Connor trousers as streamlined and the Shelton as the house's signature block with lightly padded shoulders; Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman call both modern fit. Our stylists' judgement: the O'Connor is the leaner cut for a slim build, and the Shelton's built-up shoulder suits a broader frame.

Do Tom Ford suits run small?

It depends on the style and the store. Mr Porter flags the Shelton jacket as small to size, while Neiman Marcus says its O'Connor shawl tuxedo runs large and suggests a size down. Go by the European size, the US equivalent each retailer gives and the listing's fit note.

Are Tom Ford sunglasses good quality?

They are made in Italy under licence by Marcolin, in acetate or metal, and most listings we checked state 100 percent UVA/UVB protection. Check the lens category and the three size numbers before you buy.

Keep reading

• Men's tuxedos: what black tie requires
• The Zegna guide
• The Gucci guide
• How to dress for black-tie events
• The best designer sunglasses