Versace, Explained: The Medusa, the Draped Gown, the La Medusa Bag and How Versace Fits

October 28, 2026
Versace, Explained: The Medusa, the Draped Gown, the La Medusa Bag and How Versace Fits

Versace is the Milan house Gianni Versace founded in 1978, and it still trades on what he built: jersey draped to cling, metal mesh that pours like liquid, gold Barocco silk and a Medusa head on almost everything. If you buy one Versace piece, make it a black La Medusa top-handle bag, which puts the house's best-known hardware on a shape you can carry every day. For a black-tie party this season, choose a draped jersey gown. Prada Group has owned the house since December 2025, and Pieter Mulier, formerly creative director of ALAÏA, has been its chief creative officer since July 1, 2026; Versace's executive chairman has said his first collection will be shown in early 2027. Below: who runs Versace now, its codes, the pieces worth buying, how Versace sizing converts to US sizes and how to wear it without looking like a costume.

Versace at a glance

Founded1978, in Milan, by Gianni Versace
OwnerPrada Group, since December 2025
Creative leadPieter Mulier, chief creative officer since July 1, 2026, reporting to executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli
The codesThe Medusa head, the Greca (Greek key), the Barocco print, the safety pin and metal mesh
Signature piecesLa Medusa and Medusa '95 bags, draped jersey gowns, Barocco silk shirts, Gianni pumps
Where to startA black La Medusa top-handle, a Barocco silk shirt or a pair of black Gianni Ribbon pumps
SizingItalian sizes: on Versace's own charts an IT 40 dress is a US 4 and an IT 38 shoe is a US 8

A short history of Versace

Gianni Versace mixed what fashion usually keeps apart: classical antiquity and pop glamour, couture technique and celebrity. Two of his ideas still define the label. The first is metal mesh. He was cutting evening dresses from it by 1982; the Metropolitan Museum of Art, which owns one from that year, notes that the material drapes in liquid gathers, ideal for classical effects, but is technically hard to join. The second is the Medusa, the gorgon of Greek myth, which became the house emblem. Donatella Versace, quoted by Grazia, recalled asking her brother why he chose it: he told her he thought "whoever falls in love with Medusa can't flee from her." Versace says the plaque on its La Medusa bag copies a decoration found on the doors of its first Milan headquarters.

The safety pin arrived in 1994, when Elizabeth Hurley wore a black Versace dress held together with oversized gold pins to the London premiere of Four Weddings and a Funeral. Donatella told Harper's Bazaar in 2019 that her brother "made that dress for a woman who is sure of herself and who isn't afraid to break the rules." Gianni Versace was murdered outside his Miami Beach house in 1997, and Donatella took over the design of the house, as NPR recounted when she stepped down. Three years later Jennifer Lopez wore the green Versace "jungle" dress to the 2000 Grammy Awards. Versace's show notes say so many people searched Google for it that Google created its image search, a story Google's Eric Schmidt has also told, and in September 2019 Lopez closed Versace's show at Milan Fashion Week in a new version of the dress, the Associated Press reported.

Who designs Versace now: Prada, Pieter Mulier and what is in stores

Since spring 2025 Versace has changed owners once and designers twice. In March 2025, Capri Holdings, then the owner, announced that Donatella would become the house's chief brand ambassador from April 1 and that Dario Vitale, formerly of Miu Miu, would succeed her. Vitale showed a single collection, for spring 2026, in Milan in September 2025. Prada Group completed its purchase of Versace from Capri on December 2, 2025, CNN reported, and Vitale left the house later that month.

On February 5, 2026, Prada Group and Versace named Pieter Mulier chief creative officer, effective July 1, 2026, reporting to Versace's executive chairman, Lorenzo Bertelli, according to the group's announcement. His résumé runs through Raf Simons, Jil Sander, Dior and Calvin Klein to ALAÏA, where he was creative director. On the group's March 2026 results call, Bertelli said Mulier's first Versace collection would be shown early in 2027, and the group set out what comes first: a relaunch of Atelier Versace, the house's haute couture line, and the end of Versace Jeans Couture and the ready-to-wear sub-brands, as FashionUnited reported.

Mulier has not yet shown a collection, so the Versace in stores this fall comes from long-running lines and earlier seasons (the Vivian bag debuted in spring 2026, Vitale's season). In an in-between season, buy the codes that have outlasted every change of designer, such as the La Medusa bag, the Barocco silk and the Gianni pump, rather than a look the next collection may leave behind. For the group's flagship house, see our Prada guide.

The Versace codes: Medusa, Greca, Barocco and the safety pin

Most Versace pieces carry at least one of five codes.

  • The Medusa. It appears in three main forms. The La Medusa plaque is a round gold Medusa head set into the flap of a bag. Medusa '95 hardware, a Medusa medallion between two crescent-shaped clasps, is, in Versace's words, a house code "first seen in the 1995 collections." The Medusa Cameo, a 3D leather patch, is the quietest of the three.
  • The Greca. The Greek key, the meander border of classical friezes. Versace describes its Greca chain links as "constructed from one uninterrupted line." It appears on belt buckles, sneaker soles and prints.
  • The Barocco. Gold acanthus scrolls, usually on black, framing a Medusa. Versace's own description of its newest version mixes "Hellenic iconography and decorations from Magna Graecia" with "classic Baroque acanthus leaves."
  • The safety pin. From the 1994 Hurley dress; today a belt buckle.
  • Metal mesh. Gianni's liquid metal, now used for party dresses and evening bags.

Our stylists wear one code per outfit: a Medusa '95 belt on a plain black dress looks polished; add a Barocco shirt and a La Medusa bag and it looks like a costume. Belts and silk scarves are also among the least expensive ways into the house, and they work with clothes you already own. Leather belts suit trousers and jeans; the gold chain belts suit a slip dress or a knit. For other houses, see our designer belt guide or browse designer belts.

Versace dresses: the draped gown and the party dress

If you want one Versace dress, choose it for the drape. Most of Versace's evening gowns this season are viscose jersey, cut to cling and gather, and most of those carry Medusa hardware at the shoulder or on the straps: an asymmetric liquid-jersey gown with Medusa '95 hardware on one shoulder, a column gown with a side slit, and a V-neck gown with the diamond-shaped stitching Versace calls "Rombo." Jersey suits a long winter evening: it does not crease in a car, it moves when you dance, and it packs small. It also shows everything underneath, so plan seamless underwear, and try it on with the shoes you will wear, since a floor-length hem has to clear them.

For the most formal evenings, the black embroidered silk gown carries bead and crystal embroidery at the back that Versace says is inspired by Gianni Versace's "Ballets Russes" archives; the blush double-duchesse gown is satin with a deliberately creased finish. A black or navy column is the gown you will wear for years; crimson and champagne say holiday. Versace marks the jersey column gowns "fitted," so choose your size by your largest measurement on its chart. For other houses, see our guide to the best holiday dresses or browse designer gowns.

The party dresses are where the codes get louder. The slip minis are in what Versace calls "the iconic Atelier Versace metal mesh," the silver one in a newer, lighter form of it; the classic mesh is heavy and cold to the touch, so it is a dress for a heated room and a short walk to the car. Store it flat rather than on a hanger, where the weight of the mesh pulls on the straps. The envers-satin draped mini is the gown's cocktail-length sister, with the same Medusa '95 hardware on one shoulder. The strapless silk-duchesse mini and the long-sleeved crêpe-jersey midi have interior corsets, which hold them in place but leave little room for a large dinner. For a long seated evening, choose the midnight-navy velvet mini, which Versace marks a loose fit, with batwing sleeves and crystal embroidery on one shoulder; in most light it reads as black. Browse more designer mini dresses, and for the night itself, see what to wear on New Year's Eve.

Versace prints: the Barocco silk shirt and its relatives

The Barocco is the print most people mean by "Versace print," and Versace's listing for its Barocco silk shirt calls it "a recurring brand motif." The house now prints several relatives: the New Barocco in gold on purple or ivory; the Neoclassical Barocco in gray and rose, which blends the Greca and the Barocco with flowers and is the softest of them; and the Teatro, an op-art print of optical illusions that Versace calls a tribute to Gianni Versace's "theatrical leanings."

A silk shirt is the best first print. Wear the black Barocco shirt with plain black trousers or a black pencil skirt, or open over a white T-shirt with blue jeans, and keep every other piece in the outfit plain. The shirt dresses come with a detachable elastic belt with Medusa hardware, and Versace lists the gray-and-rose Neoclassical Barocco one as fit-and-flare, so it suits a day lunch as well as a party. Silk twill marks with water and perfume: put your scent on before you dress.

Versace bags: which one to buy first

Versace organizes its bags into lines, each built around one version of the Medusa. Start from what the bag has to do. The measurements below are from Versace's own listings.

If you needChooseWhy
One structured bag for every dayLa Medusa top-handle25 by 15 by 22 cm (about 10 by 6 by 8.7 inches), in grained leather, with both a chain and a leather shoulder strap, so it works by hand or crossbody.
A smaller day-to-evening bagLa Medusa small top-handle20 by 10 by 17 cm, with a strap drop that adjusts from 30 to 50 cm; holds a phone, a card case and keys.
Something dressierMedusa '95 croc-effect top-handle26 by 8.5 by 19 cm in embossed calf leather, with a magnetic flap and a detachable crossbody strap. Emerald and burgundy are the holiday colors.
A soft shoulder bagEmblème hoboNappa leather, 25 by 9 by 20 cm. The strap drop is only 19 cm, so it sits under the arm over a sweater, not over a winter coat.
A bag for workSeverine shoulder bag or Rivière leather toteThe Severine is 26 by 10 by 20 cm with a 24 cm handle drop. The Rivière tote is calf leather with a magnetic tab, an inside zipped pocket, metal feet and a detachable shoulder strap; the La Medusa canvas tote is the larger option, 50 by 45 cm.
A bucket bagPivot small23 by 17 by 27 cm with a 32 cm strap drop, and the quiet Medusa Cameo leather patch instead of a metal plaque.

La Medusa is the one to buy first: the black with gold hardware suits a black, white, gray, red or jewel-tone wardrobe; the white is fresher and needs more care. Medusa '95 is the dressier family, in croc-effect leather with a belt across the front, and looks right with tailoring. Compare designer top-handle bags.

The newer lines are softer and less obviously branded. The Emblème bags are soft nappa leather that close with a Medusa magnet on the strap. The Severine, in Versace's words, has a "distinctive structured geometry," with a square closure on the flap. The Pivot bucket bags, Roomy Boston bags and Rivière totes carry the leather Medusa Cameo, the Pivot with a chain and the Roomy with metal rivets. The Vivian, which Versace calls "a hero Bugatti silhouette" and introduced in its spring 2026 collection, is cut in vegetable-tanned leather with a natural patina; the line's clutches are in the evening edit below.

The La Medusa satin clutch, in black or white, is embellished with tonal crystals, about 20 by 14 cm, with a detachable chain; the metal-mesh clutch is lined in nappa. The Medusa '95 croc-effect clutch is the practical one, with card slots and a zipped pocket, and in emerald it lifts a black dress. The Vivian embroidered suede clutch, which Versace says draws on its Ballets Russes archives, is for a plain dress. See our guide to evening bags for other houses.

Versace shoes: Gianni pumps, Medusa '95 sandals and Greca sneakers

The Gianni pumps are, in Versace's words, "drawn from the Gianni Versace archives": a deep vamp and a pointed toe, with a jeweled ring carrying a 3D Medusa set into the heel. The Gianni Ribbon pumps and slingbacks are sharper, in patent leather with the "nastro Gianni" bow and Medusa hardware at the toe; the 85 mm version has an 8.5 cm (3.3 inch) heel, a height most people can manage through a long party. The Medusa '95 sandals are the evening shoes: an 11.5 cm heel on a 2 cm platform, an ankle strap and crystal Medusa '95 hardware. For day, the Greca sneakers have the Greek key engraved on the sole.

Versace says its Gianni leather pumps, Gianni nappa ankle boots, gold Medusa '95 sandals and Opera Bow sandals fit true to size. The ankle boots have a 5.5 cm (2.2 inch) heel and a wide 35 cm (13.8 inch) opening, so the shaft stands away from the leg rather than gripping it. Versace's size guide also sends you to each listing's Size & Fit notes for the shape of the footbed. For more party shoes from other houses, see our party shoe guide, or browse designer pumps.

Versace sizing: how Italian sizes convert

Versace sizes its women's clothes in Italian sizes, and its own size guide converts them like this:

Versace (IT)LetterUSBustWaistHips
36XXS081 cm / 31.9 in63 cm / 24.8 in87 cm / 34.3 in
38XS284 cm / 33.1 in66 cm / 26 in90 cm / 35.4 in
40S487 cm / 34.3 in69 cm / 27.2 in93 cm / 36.6 in
42M690 cm / 35.4 in72 cm / 28.3 in96 cm / 37.8 in
44L894 cm / 37 in76 cm / 29.9 in100 cm / 39.4 in
46XL1098 cm / 38.6 in80 cm / 31.5 in104 cm / 40.9 in
48XXL12103 cm / 40.6 in86 cm / 33.9 in109 cm / 42.9 in
503XL14108 cm / 42.5 in92 cm / 36.2 in115 cm / 45.3 in
524XL16113 cm / 44.5 in98 cm / 38.5 in121 cm / 47.6 in

These are body measurements, not garment ones: Versace advises measuring the fullest point of your bust, the narrowest point of your waist and the fullest point of your hips. Then read each listing's fit line. Versace marks its jersey column gowns and corseted dresses "fitted," the printed silk shirt dresses "fit and flare," the Teatro shirt "regular fit" and the velvet mini "loose fit." For a fitted piece, go by your largest measurement; for a corseted one, by bust and waist. In most dress listings the model wears an IT 38 and stands between 5 ft 9 in and 5 ft 11 in, which tells you where a hem will fall.

Shoes are in Italian sizes, which Versace treats as the same as EU sizes, and its chart converts an IT 38 to a US 8, a 37 to a US 7 and so on, with half sizes in between. Conversions differ between brands, so check your foot length: Versace lists 25.3 cm (9.96 inches) for a 38. Belts are sized in centimeters by the circumference where you wear them: on Versace's chart a 70 is a small, an 80 a medium and a 90 a large, and the elasticated Medusa '95 belts come in letter sizes.

How to wear Versace without looking like a costume

Versace was made to be noticed, so the work is in the editing: let the hardware be your jewelry (a gown with Medusa '95 hardware at the shoulder needs no necklace) and keep everything else plain and well cut. Five outfits for the season:

  1. Office: the black Barocco silk shirt tucked into a black wool pencil skirt, black Gianni Ribbon pumps and a black La Medusa top-handle.
  2. Weekend: the gray-and-rose Neoclassical Barocco shirt worn open over a white T-shirt, straight blue jeans, white sneakers and the white La Medusa top-handle.
  3. Holiday dinner: the midnight-navy velvet mini, sheer black tights, the Gianni nappa ankle boots and the emerald Medusa '95 clutch.
  4. Black tie: the crimson liquid-jersey gown with black satin Medusa '95 sandals and the black crystal La Medusa clutch, with no necklace and small earrings.
  5. New Year's Eve: the silver metal-mesh slip mini, the white crystal La Medusa clutch, black Opera Bow sandals and a black wool coat over everything.

Our stylists avoid three things with Versace: stacking codes, wearing silver jewelry against gold Medusa hardware, and starting with the loudest piece. Already own a Versace piece? Ask our AI stylist to build outfits around it from the clothes in your digital closet.

Is Versace worth it?

For the right pieces, yes. Versace's best buys are statements that have lasted: a black La Medusa top-handle, a Barocco silk shirt, black Gianni pumps and a black jersey gown. The build backs them: the Gianni Ribbon pumps have calf-leather soles and leather linings. Treat the seasonal pieces, such as the two-tone geometric minis and the embroidered Ballets Russes styles, as one-season pleasures, and buy them only if you love them now.

On price, belts and silk scarves run from about $300 to $1,000, most shoes sit around $1,000, the bags in this guide run from about $1,300 to $4,000, party dresses start around $2,800 and the gowns from about $4,000. If you are weighing Versace against another Italian house, compare Valentino's Rockstud and VLogo pieces in our Valentino guide and Gucci's Jackie and Horsebit in our Gucci guide.

How we chose

Every piece here is new and from Versace's own US store. We picked pieces that carry the house's codes and leaned on listings that give materials, measurements and fit lines, because Versace's own fit notes are the best sizing advice there is. We checked every photograph against its listed color, which is why the velvet mini appears here as navy, the name Versace gives it. For the season we favored black, crimson, emerald, silver and gold. Clothes had to come in at least four Italian sizes; the bags and chain belts are sold in one size.

Frequently asked questions

Who is Versace's creative director now?

Pieter Mulier, whose title is chief creative officer. He started on July 1, 2026, after leading ALAÏA, and executive chairman Lorenzo Bertelli has said his first Versace collection will be shown in early 2027.

Who owns Versace?

Prada Group, which completed its purchase of Versace from Capri Holdings on December 2, 2025. Lorenzo Bertelli is Versace's executive chairman.

Does Versace run small?

Not on paper: Versace's own chart converts an IT 40 to a US 4 and an IT 42 to a US 6. Fit depends on the piece: many dresses are marked "fitted" or built on an inner corset, so size by your largest measurement. For shoes, Versace converts an IT 38 to a US 8 and marks several styles true to size; check your foot length against its chart.

What does the Versace Medusa mean?

The Medusa is the gorgon of Greek myth and the house emblem. Donatella Versace, quoted by Grazia, recalled that Gianni chose it because he thought whoever falls in love with Medusa cannot escape her.

Which Versace bag should I buy first?

A black La Medusa top-handle, with the house's best-known hardware and both a chain and a leather strap. For evenings, a La Medusa crystal clutch.

Is Versace Jeans Couture the same as Versace?

No. Versace Jeans Couture is a separate, lower-priced line made under license, and the Prada Group said in March 2026 that it will discontinue it. Everything in this guide is from Versace's main line.

Keep reading

Category: Designer Guides